Visitors to Kawah Ijen Volcano would be forgiven for thinking they have somehow passed through a portal into some long forgotten mythical land, or perhaps stepped into a dusty old wardrobe and been transported far from where they began in modern day Indonesia. This is a place that is straight out of folklore – misty, eerie, and ominously deadly.
One of the worlds most famous volcanoes, Kawah Ijen lies in the far eastern reaches of the island of Java. It’s not the largest volcano in the range, with that title held by the stratovolcano Gunung Merapi. Instead, what stands Ijen apart from the rest is the clouds of poisonous sulfuric gas, and the largest acidic lake in the world that dominates the crater. The only place that could possibly come close to comparing, would be Kawah Putih in West Java.
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Table of Contents
- The Ijen Volcano Hike
- Sulphur Mining In Ijen Volcano
- How to get to Ijen Volcano
- Can Anyone Do the Ijen Volcano Hike?
- What do I need to take?
- Tour Companies for Ijen Volcano Hike
- Accommodation
The Ijen volcano complex boasts some of the highest levels of sulfur in the world. Apart from causing the deadly clouds of gas, it is another side effect that attracts visitors from all over the world. When the gas comes into contact with air temperature that is above 360°C, a natural phenomenon is caused as it bursts into bright blue flames. The heat, obviously, comes from the molten lava beneath the rocks, and the blue fire is a spectacular sight that can only be seen to be believed.
The crater itself is also home to a large, spectacular and totally lethal turquoise lake. The water is highly acidic, and even though one cannot go near it, photographers have fallen in love with the colors and hues presented as the sun rises and the lake reveals its true beauty.
The Ijen Volcano Hike
The hike to Ijen Volcano isn’t tough. After the one hour drive up from Banyuwangi you will reach the trail head. Here, you have the option to hire gas masks for use in the crater as protection from the gas. If you are on a guided tour you may already have them. You can also use the toilet here, which is recommended as there are none on the volcano, as should be expected.
Generally you will have opted to do the hike at night, as this is the only time you can see the blue flames. They are not visible in the daytime, and disappear at about 5am.
The hike from the trail head is fairly straight forward. It consists of a smooth sandy path that winds up the side of the Volcano. For a fit person it will take about an hour to get to the crater rim, or an hour and a half for the average hiker. Make sure you have worn comfortable walking shoes and warm clothing for the night air.
Once you reach the crater rim you have the option of descending into the caldera to see the blue flame and lake up close. If so, the trail isn’t well marked, doesn’t have much in the way of handrails, and is slippery with loose rock underfoot. Be careful and take your time as you descend. The trail is narrow, only allowing for one person to pass at a time so overtaking slower walkers is possible, just be careful. Also, beware of miners who are hauling rocks out of the crater. Be polite and allow them to get past unhindered.
Once you have seen the flames and taken the time you want dodging the sulfur clouds, ascend back to the rim for the sunrise. This can be quite spectacular and not to be missed. There is a point that most people will hike to on the rim where there are a couple of huts that can be utilised while waiting, but really, anywhere on the rim you will get just as good a view. Find a place to enjoy it away from from the crowd if you can, before beginning the hike back down again.
Sulphur Mining In Ijen Volcano
The crater of Ijen Volcano hides another, sad, but also dark secret. Local Indonesians are employed within the crater as workers at what has to be the world’s deadliest sulfur mine.
When the famous blue flames of the fires in the crater extinguish, they leave behind a golden yellow, sulfur rich rock. This rock is then broken up by the workers and transported out of the crater on foot. Each miner carries up to 90 kg of rock in two wicker baskets that they balance across their shoulders.
The only protection they have from the deadly gasses are wet clothes that are tied across their mouths as they work. Hardly effective, these miners are shortening their own life span in order to provide for their families. Each load has to be hauled up the inside of the crater to the rim, and then down the other side where they are eventually paid by the kilo. On average, a worker will earn about $14 a day for the two loads they are capable of completing.
The conditions these brave men work in would never be allowed in any western civilization. Health and Safety would not even allow the tourists to venture near the crater, let alone men to work there for years on end.
How to get to Ijen Volcano
There are two ways to approach Ijen. If coming from the Java side then you would make your way to Bondowoso. However, the most popular way is from the Bali side of the Volcano, via the town of Banyuwangi. This is close to the ferry that takes tourists back and forth between Java and Bali, so is a very convenient alternative to coming overland from Surabaya.
You can choose to stay overnight at Banyuwangi as there are plenty of accommodation options, including hostels and backpackers. The trip from the town to the volcano involves only a short drive, followed by a hike of approx 1-2 hours, depending on fitness.
Can Anyone Do the Ijen Volcano Hike?
The short answer is yes. The hike isn’t strenuous, and for the most part involves a fairly straight forward track. Just be aware that once inside the crater you will have to wear gas masks if you want to get close to the blue flame, or go down close to the lake. With this in mind, if you have a breathing disorder such as Athsma then it may be an idea to skip the trek. Many people decide to hike to the crater rim and then not venture further, which is fine too, as you can still see the blue flame and just await the sunrise.
What do I need to take?
Comfortable walking shoes with good grip is a must. Warm clothing for the chilly night air, gloves for gripping rocks, and a head lamp if you have one. Torches will do the trick, but it’s always nice to have your hands free.
Tour Companies for Ijen Volcano Hike
We would recommend going with Getyourguide. They are world reknowned and trusted, doing tours all over the world. The local guides know Indonesia, and have done the trip many, many times.
Accommodation
Click HERE for best accommodation in Bondowoso.
Click HERE for best accommodation in Banyuwangi, the most popular route to take to Ijen.
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