There are many places that a visitor to Yogyakarta will have high on their list of places to see. Between Borobudur, Prambanan, the Royal Palace and Jogja’s amazing beaches, most tourists to the city have a pretty hefty schedule. Right in the middle of the city, however, is located an amazing piece of history that many do not even realize exists until they actually arrive. Taman Sari Water Castle is as unique as it is quirky, and give visitors a completely unique view of the life of a Sultan from yesteryear.
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Table of Contents
- What is Taman Sari Water Castle?
- A Sultan’s “Wife Hunt”
- Tours of Taman Sari Water Castle
- Where is Taman Sari Water Castle
- Summary
What is Taman Sari Water Castle?
Taman Sari Water Castle is also known as the Garden of the Sultanate, and consists of several complexes combined into one. It is the traditional Summer Retreat for the Sultan and his family, although in recent times is really only a few minutes drive from the actual Royal Palace. Used by the Sultan to meditate, rest, work, and for defense of the Royal Family, it has now fallen mostly into disrepair. This, however, does not diminish its appeal, and is a wonderful place to visit.
The complex of Taman Sari Water Castle once consisted of three lakes, a mosque, bathing complex, underground tunnels and a small orchard. It was built in the 18th century, with official construction starting in 1758AD by the first Sultan of Yogyakarta. The style in which it was built is also very unique, combining East and West beautifully throughout. It is said that the leading engineer on the project spent quite some time in Jakarta, where he fell in love with the western architecture, and therefore incorporated that style into Taman Sari Water Castle. The result was amazing.
Today, however, Taman Sari is not used by the Sultan any longer. Most of the complex has been taken over by the local Kampung Taman Settlement, who reside within its ancient boundaries. Indeed, a walk around the Castle will take you past many homes, cafes and Warungs. All are well kept and maintained, however, as the Water Castle has been listed by local government as an official tourist destination.
A Sultan’s “Wife Hunt”
One of the favorite past times for a Sultan is hunting. This is not restricted to hunting prey that has four legs, however.
One of the most popular areas of Taman Sari Water Castle is the Sultan’s bathing pools. This lies adjacent to the small orchard, and both locations were used by the Sultan when he “hunted” a new wife or concubine.
The hunt would start within the orchard, where the young “hopefuls” would dance for the Sultan, who would stand on a nearby balcony and watch. At the conclusion of the dance, they would then move into the adjacent bathing complex, which consists of two large pools with fountains.
The women would swim, bathe, and lounge around, relaxing around the edges of the pool. Far above, in a tower and behind a barred window, the Sultan would observe them from the shadows. When the time was right, he would throw a rose high into the air, and the girl who caught the rose would become his new “wife”. She would then leave the pool, to meet the Sultan within his own private pool and sauna, where they would spend the evening together.
The process, of the hunt, and the method of choice by tossing the rose doesn’t seem to gel to me, however. Why would he go to the trouble of “hunting” if he were to leave the choice to chance. I can only imagine that the “toss” of the rose was done strategically, so as to fall exactly where he wanted it to fall. This question was never asked on my tour, but I am certain that more than a few were wondering.
This entire part of the history of Taman Sari Water Castle seems rather barbaric and sexist, but that would only be looking upon it from a modern day standard. Several hundred years ago was a different time, and the “chosen” girl was seen to have been blessed. She was celebrated by all the other women, and was taken into the Royal Court and began her training for life within. The “hunt” was not just a one night thing, but an almost official process.
Tours of Taman Sari Water Castle
If you want to check out Taman Sari Water Castle, then the best way is to do a tour. They are pretty much compulsory these days anyway, but it is definitely the best way to see everything and learn about the history of the gardens.
Much of the complex is very difficult to find, and if I hadn’t had a guide when I first went there, then there is no way I would have found even half of what there is to see. The bathing complex is easy, as it is located right near the main gate. But to get to the underground mosque and some of the amazing ruins requires negotiating your way through a network of gangs that would definitely get me turned around if I was on my own. In fact, I probably wouldn’t have even managed to find the tunnels, and they are one of the best parts of Taman Sari.
The tour is very, very cheap too, only costing the equivalent of a few dollars, so that puts it easily in the price range of even those on the tightest of budgets.
One more thing about the tours. They will give you a guide that speaks English, which is amazing. On my tour I was the only westerner, and the guide would do the tour in Indonesian, then turn to me and do it all again in English. I basically got my own private tour, and could ask as many questions as I wanted. It was pretty awesome!
Where is Taman Sari Water Castle
Taman Sari Water Castle is VERY easy to find. It is located almost smack in the middle of Jogja, and is literally only a 10 or 15 minute walk from the actual Royal Palace (Kraton). If you don’t want to walk, any local mode of transport will do. It’s only a few minutes from anything!
If you are making your own way, then simply follow THIS LINK, for an accurate Google maps location.
Summary
Taman Sari Water Castle is an amazing place to visit. It is a unique glimpse into the history of Yogyakarta, and the Sultanate itself. I was very pleasantly surprised on my first visit, and know that when I return to Jogja again soon, I will be visiting Taman Sari again. There was just so much to take in, I am certain I would have missed something!
I definitely recommend anyone to visit!
Have you been to Candi Prambanan yet?
One of the most amazing places I have visited in Indonesia is the incredible Candi Prambanan. This UNESCO Heritage Listed site has to be seen to be believed. Check out the link below if you are in the Yogyakarta area. It is not one to be missed!
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