Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park in southeast Missouri is one of Nature’s finest water parks. My family first visited Johnson’s Shut-Ins in May 2020, as the world was starting to reopen following the initial COVID-19 scare. I’d heard all about the clear waters and natural waterslides that make Johnson’s Shut-Ins unique—and the scenic beauty of the area was everything I’d hoped for!
Not much has changed since then, and the park is just as beautiful as it was on my first visit which I’ll concentrate on throughout this article. So today, I’ll share a few thoughts and memories of that trip as I help you prepare for your own visit.
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About Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park
Johnson’s Shut-Ins is a very strange name for a State Park; however there’s a very good reason for it.
Along some of the hiking trails in the park are located informative signs about local flora and fauna, park history, and, of course, the shut-ins themselves. A “shut-in” is a small, constricted gorge in a stream or river. There are a whole cluster of these shut-ins in the Black River that snakes its way through the park.
How Did the Shut-Ins Form?
The answer dates back billions of years, when volcanic activity in the Saint Francois Mountains deposited layers of hard igneous rock. The flowing river gradually eroded all softer materials and smoothed the igneous rock, carving narrow passages that look like small, smooth canyons.
Water still rushes over and through the shut-ins, cascading in gentle waterfalls and creating what visitors like to call “natural waterslides.”
Why Are They Called Johnson’s Shut-Ins?
The Johnston family first settled in the area in the 1800s and became well established citizens. Over time, the “t” was dropped from their name and, by the early 1900s, most of the family had moved away. They left their mark, though—three generations of the family farmed the land, and 36 of them were buried in a small cemetery within the current park boundaries.
2005 Flooding
Johnson’s Shut-Ins officially became a state park in 1955. Half a century later, in December 2005, the nearby Taum Sauk Reservoir breached and sent billions of gallons of water down the mountainside.
Thankfully, no one was killed or seriously injured, but the Johnson’s Shut-Ins campground and many other areas of the park were badly damaged. The destruction was so great, the park didn’t fully reopen until 2010.
When it did, it bounced back in a big way. Today, it’s one of the most visited state parks in Missouri. An alert system is in place to warn visitors well in advance of any future flooding emergencies.
What to Expect at Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park
Johnson’s Shut-Ins is all about spending time in nature. On our first visit, our plan was to spend a couple days doing what most visitors do—camp, hike, and, most of all, swim in the shut-ins.
Our first visit was right after the COVID-19 stay-at-home orders, and in the middle of the week, so we were able to enjoy the park without the crowds. We also got to enjoy the unpredictability of May weather in Missouri—such as the pop-up thunderstorm that doused our dinner the first evening. That just added to the fun, though—I love thunderstorms!
If you’re planning your own visit, there are various experiences you won’t want to miss. Here are some things you can expect to find at Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park.
The Drive to Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park
My family drove to Johnson’s Shut-Ins from Kansas City. During the five-hour trip, the scenery was constantly changing before our eyes. From scattered stands of trees to tight-packed forests—flat farmland to undulating hills and high country. It felt like we’d entered a different state.
The drive to Johnson’s Shut-Ins took us through sections of Mark Twain National Forest, a beautiful Ozark region loaded with evergreens and deciduous trees. The curvy roads wound around mountains and through dense tree tunnels, taking us on an adventure I didn’t realize existed in Missouri.
The Visitor Center and Camp Stores
You will find the Johnson’s Shut-Ins visitor center just south of the main entrance. We didn’t stop there during our 2020 trip—I think it was still closed due to COVID. Typically, it’s open from April to October.
The visitor center tells all about the fascinating geology and history of the region. Visitors can learn more about the park’s past, the formation of the shut-ins, and local sights and attractions.
Johnson’s Shut-Ins also houses two stores: the Campground Store, in the campground, and the River Store, in the South Day-Use area.
These stores are great—especially if you’re a little inexperienced like we were. They provide all the essentials you may have forgotten to bring—snacks and other groceries, ice, tote bags, laundry detergent, etc. You can also buy firewood and park guides for your stay. The stores even sell clothing and souvenir items, like playing cards and jewelry.
Rivers, Forests, and Mountains
Taking in the scenery is one of my favorite things to do at Johnson’s Shut-Ins. Even the trees and plants had my attention on that first camping trip—many were different from what I was used to seeing in northern Missouri. Case in point—there was a big, healthy-looking prickly pear cactus nestled among the trees at our campsite!
The Black River is the primary body of water in the park, but there are some smaller streams and creeks too. One of these flowed right past our campsite. The water was impossibly cold—and some of the clearest I’ve ever seen.
I remember being amazed by all the evergreen trees—we have mostly deciduous trees in northern Missouri. There were plenty of those at Johnson’s Shut-Ins as well, though my favorites were the sassafras trees—easy to spot by their mitten-and-glove-shaped leaves. I would rub the leaves to get a hint of their sweet citrusy smell, then scrape away bits of the soft bark to get a whiff of root beer!
This part of Missouri sits at higher elevations than most of the state thanks to the Saint Francois Mountains. The tallest of these “peaks” is less than 1,800 feet above sea level, so calling them mountains may be optimistic. Still, they are the best mountains Missouri has to offer. Their gentle, rolling slopes provided a peaceful beauty that set my soul at ease.
Camping and Hiking
Johnson’s Shut-Ins is a popular destination for camping and hiking. You can reserve a campsite on a walk-in basis, though visitors are encouraged to make reservations ahead of time.
My family’s campsite was on the edge of a wooded area, with small clearings in the woods for our tents. There was plenty of room for all four of the tents we set up there, and although the site next to ours was occupied, the trees provided adequate privacy.
Several hiking trails crisscross Johnson’s Shut-Ins. Some are easy enough for beginners and families with young children. My siblings and I even found a trail winding through the woods near our campsite. A section of the 400-mile Ozark Trail also passes through the park, providing a fun challenge for experienced hikers.
Swimming and Water Activities
Most visitors flock to Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park for the water activities. The shut-ins provide a perfect environment for swimming, diving, slip-sliding over natural waterslides, or just hanging out in calm pools—provided water levels are low enough.
There was a lot of heavy rain before and during my family’s visit, so water levels were up. The park uses a flag system—green, yellow, and red flags—to provide information about water conditions. During our stay, red flags were posted everywhere and river accesses were closed. Talk about disappointment—the main point of our trip had been to splash around the natural water park!
We didn’t know this beforehand, but you can monitor water levels online. They can change day by day, of course, but keeping an eye on things leading up to your trip can give you an idea whether the shut-ins may be accessible while you are there.
Even though we couldn’t get in the water, we didn’t feel like the trip was wasted. The views of the shut-ins were incredible! The Black River was overflowing. The shut-ins themselves no longer looked like waterslides, but rushing rapids tripping over each other in a raging race to get downriver. I don’t think I would have gotten close to them even if I could have!
Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park Camping
There are 78 tent campsites, six camper cabins, and six housekeeping cabins at the Johnson’s Shut-Ins campground. There are also special-use camping areas available for groups of 10 to 50 people.
Campsites are classified as walk-in, basic, electric, electric/sewer/water, and equestrian electric/water sites. They come with firepits and picnic tables and are located close to restroom and shower facilities.
If you prefer a less primitive camping experience, you can reserve one of the camper cabins. These sleep up to six people and feature heating, air conditioning, and electricity but no restrooms or showers. Visitors must bring their own linens or sleeping bags.
The six housekeeping cabins are fully furnished. They feature private restrooms and running water along with heating, air conditioning, and electricity. Full-size kitchen appliances, a dining room table, and a TV round out the accommodations. These cabins are ideal for those hoping to enjoy the scenery as luxuriously as possible.
Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park Trails
Johnson’s Shut-Ins features the following trails:
- Shut-Ins Trail (2.3 miles)
- Scour Trail (1.4 miles)
- Goggins Mountain Equestrian Trail (10.1 miles)
- Black River Trail (3.15 miles)
- Campground Trail (2.5 miles)
- Horseshoe Glade Trail (1.5 miles)
- Ozark Trail (15 miles through the park)
The Shut-Ins Trail has two parts. The first is an easy 0.3-mile hike along a boardwalk from the parking lot; it leads to an observation deck with an excellent view of the shut-ins. The remaining two miles are more rugged. My brother and I scrambled part-way up this trail, which was a bit washed out thanks to all the recent rainfall. It took us up the side of the mountain, past sudden drop-offs and through tangles of trees and shrubs. Blue arrows along the way helped us stay on track.
The Scour Trail is another popular choice—it’s a loop trail leading to the scour created by the 2005 flooding, which exposed new levels of geology. The Goggins Mountain Equestrian Trail is great for those wanting to explore the park by horseback. Horseshoe Glade Trail allows adventurous hikers to explore the park’s glade wilderness. The Black River Trail connects the various parts of the park, and last but not least the campground trail provides easy access around the campground.
Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park Hours
Johnson’s Shut-Ins is open year-round, but park hours vary depending on the season:
- 8am to 6pm daily – March 1 through Wednesday before Memorial Day
- 8am to 8pm daily – Thursday before Memorial Day through Labor Day
- 8am to 6pm daily – Day after Labor Day through October 31
- 8am to 4pm daily – November through February
The park office is open 8am to 4pm, Monday through Friday, year-round.
The visitor center is open April through October and closed November through March. Hours are:
- 10am to 4pm Saturday and Sunday – April and October
- 10am to 4pm Wednesday through Sunday – May 1 through Wednesday before Memorial Day
- 10am to 5pm Wednesday through Sunday – Thursday before Memorial Day through Labor Day
- 10am to 4pm Wednesday through Sunday – Day after Labor Day through September 30
Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park Tickets and Prices
Like all Missouri state parks, admission to Johnson’s Shut-Ins is free. Visitors aren’t required to purchase tickets or make reservations.
Camping rates range from $14 to $35 USD per night depending on the type of campsite you book and whether you’re visiting on- or off-season. Basic walk-in sites are the least expensive, while those with water, electric, and sewer capabilities cost more.
Cabins cost $80 per night during the season and $75 per night during the offseason. These must be booked ahead of time since there are only 12 of them.
Tips and Hints
You’ll want to keep a few things in mind when planning to visit Johnson’s Shut-Ins. These tips will help you have the best time possible during your stay.
- Plan for all kinds of weather. Depending on the season, you may experience thunderstorms, snow, drought, heat, or cold. Summertime storms can come out of nowhere and may produce heavy rain. My family managed to stay relatively dry with rain covers and tarps thrown over our tents!
- Understand that you’re going to spend a lot of time outdoors. Johnson’s Shut-Ins is known for its camping, hiking, and swimming. Unless you book a cabin, you’ll have to spend most of your time outside. I loved this aspect of the trip; my little brother, not so much. He would have slept in the car if our parents had let him! (He eventually realized the air mattress in the tent was far more comfortable.)
- Make reservations ahead of time. Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park can be a busy place, especially in the summer. You can book some campsites on a walk-in basis, but it’s best to reserve your spot in advance. Cabins are available by reservation only.
- Plan to visit during the offseason. If you want to enjoy the shut-ins without the crowds, visit before Memorial Day or after Labor Day. The park is open year-round. Just keep an eye on the weather forecast and make sure you’re prepared.
- Check local advisories and water levels. The park has various regulations you’ll need to follow, like firewood restrictions and areas where pets are not allowed. Its flag system keeps visitors updated on whether water activities are permitted. You can find out about these advisories ahead of time and monitor water levels by visiting the Missouri State Parks website.
- Take food and water. Though you can buy these at the Camp Store, you’ll save money by taking your own food and water. Consider easy-to-prepare meals you can cook on a firepit or grill. Taking a cooler of water and insulated water bottles is also a great idea.
- Don’t forget your camera! There is so much scenery to photograph in Johnson’s Shut-Ins. Plus, taking pictures or videos is a great way to preserve the memories you make during your stay.
- As with every trip away from home – don’t forget to look into travel insurance to keep you covered in case of emergency!
How to Get to Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park
Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park is located in the unincorporated community of Middle Brook, Missouri, at the intersection of Highways MM and N. The park’s campground lies on the west side of Highway MM, while the shut-ins and primary trails are east of Highway N.
From St. Louis
St. Louis is about two hours northeast of Johnson’s Shut-Ins. Use this map for easy reference.
From Kansas City
Kansas City lies about five hours northwest of the park. Follow this map to reach your destination seamlessly.
From Springfield
Springfield is about three to three and a quarter hours west of Johnson’s Shut-Ins. This map will help you find your way.
Things to Do Nearby
The beautiful scenery of southeast Missouri isn’t limited to Johnson’s Shut-Ins. Other top destinations include Taum Sauk Mountain State Park, Elephant Rocks State Park, and Buford Mountain Conservation Area.
Taum Sauk Mountain State Park
Taum Sauk Mountain is the highest point in Missouri at 1,772 feet. This gentle mountain peak is visible from Johnson’s Shut-Ins.
Taum Sauk Mountain State Park is only a 35-minute drive to the northeast. You can even hike there from Johnson’s Shut-Ins via the Ozark Trail.
The park provides a trail allowing visitors to hike to the mountain’s summit. There is a small, basic campground at the park, a picnic area, and a special-use campground.
Elephant Rocks State Park
Elephant Rocks State Park is another top attraction in Missouri. Lying just 20 minutes northeast, it boasts vastly different scenery from Johnson’s Shut-Ins—a landscape of large, reddish boulders.
This is a day-use park featuring picnic tables, a playground area, hiking trails through the boulders, and the ruins of an old engine house. Some visitors enjoy an activity known as “bouldering”—climbing up the boulders using harnesses and ropes.
Buford Mountain Conservation Area
Buford Mountain is slightly shorter than Taum Sauk Mountain at 1,740 feet. Visitors to this conservation area can enjoy a rugged hike to the summit that provides an incredible view of the Belleview Valley below.
A primitive campground is available for those who want to stay overnight. If you enjoy wilderness hiking and backpacking, this spot half an hour northeast of Johnson’s Shut-Ins can be a rewarding addition to your trip.
Hotels Near Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park
Most who visit Johnson’s Shut-Ins stay at the park campground. Outside accommodations are available in surrounding communities like Lesterville, Pilot Knob, and Ironton—generally 15 to 30 minutes from the park.
I’ve never stayed at a hotel near Johnson’s Shut-Ins, so I can’t speak from personal experience. Some options with generally favorable reviews include:
- Black River Motel and Restaurant: a two-star hotel in Lesterville, about 15 minutes south of the park.
- Shepherd Mountain Inn and Suites: a three-star hotel in Ironton, about 25 minutes to the northeast of Johnson’s Shut-Ins.
- Fort Davidson Hotel: a three-star hotel in Pilot Knob, about 20 minutes northeast of the park.
Places to Eat Near Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park
Going out to eat can provide a welcome break from roughing it at the campground. Restaurants are available in towns like Lesterville, Pilot Knob, and Ironton.
As with the hotels, I don’t have any personal experience with the restaurants near Johnson’s Shut-Ins. However, some top local options include:
- Three Forks Cafe and Home Cookin: A small, family-friendly diner in Lesterville.
- The Iron Mule: A restaurant serving popular American food in Ironton.
- Checo’s Mexican Restaurant: a great spot in Ironton for those who love Mexican cuisine.
Summary
Whether you’re planning to swim, dive, and play in the shut-ins or just soak up the scenery, there’s a lot to enjoy at Johnson’s Shut-Ins State Park. My family loved our little camping excursion there. If you’re eager to explore a water park carved and constructed by Nature, you’re sure to enjoy your stay as well!
