Not too far from Yogyakarta, there is a hike that not many visitors to the region know about. It is relatively short, at just over a couple hours round trip, but is almost guaranteed to take a lot longer. The amazing views, mystical ambiance, and incredible geography, will see you lingering a lot longer than you would normally expect. Welcome to Gunung Api Purba, the Ancient Volcano of Nglanggeran.
Table of Contents
- About Gunung Api Purba
- Where is Gunung Api Purba?
- What to expect at Gunung Api Purba
- Where to stay
- Can I take a tour?
- What else is in the area?
- Summary
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About Gunung Api Purba
Gunung Api Purba is a peak near Nglanggeran, and is one of two that form the Ancient Volcano Nglanggeran. It is 700m above sea level, and has become a very popular hike for both locals, as well as tourists to the area. Both Sunrise and Sunset can be viewed from the peak, and both are amazing times to get photos of the extraordinary rock formations that the mountain is comprised of.
Nglanggeran Ancient Volcano was once an active volcano in the region. This was approximately 60 million years ago, however, and these days it is those incredible volcanic rock formations that make the area popular. Hiking to the peak of Gunung Api Purba, also known as Mount Gedhe, only takes about an hour, with the return trip being about the same. The hike is not long, but it is definitely interesting. In more ways than one.
There is a lot of local legend surrounding the Ancient Volcano, and locals will tell you that it is inhabited by spirits and ghosts of lost souls from long ago. Many of them will claim to have seen, or experienced, strange happenings on the trails at Gunung Api Purba. Once you have visited the place for yourself, you may not think they are that far fetched, either.
The Ancient Volcano has a mystic air that pervades the jungle, and wraps its tenuous fingers around you almost as soon as you set foot upon the trail. Hold your nerve, because the trail is not that long, and even though it WILL throw a few strange obstacles into your path, the end result is worth it.
Trust me.
Where is Gunung Api Purba?
To reach Gunung Api Purba, you will only have to travel about 30 to 40 minutes from Yogyakarta. Technically, it is located within the Yogyakarta Special Region, so it is a nice, local and handy hike if you are staying there.
When you leave Jogja, head South East toward the road that winds up over the hill past HeHa Sky View. If you have been in Jogja for any amount of time, you should know where this is. Take the turn off at the traffic lights at the top of the mountain, and head left. (right will take you to HeHa).
From there it is an easy ride or drive down the mountain toward the village of Nglanggeran, and the base of the Ancient Volcano itself. Follow THIS LINK for an accurate Google Maps location. Keep an eye out for the office (see picture below) where you will buy your ticket for the hike.
What to expect at Gunung Api Purba
When you arrive, park your bike or car in the ample parking area, and purchase your ticket from the office. You will then make your way around to where a sign points toward a GEO Park. You will find the head of the trail here, along with a few educational signs about the volcano and what to expect on the trail itself.
Monkeys and Rocks
The very beginning of the trail took us totally by surprise. We have just spent nearly two years in Bali, and are accustomed to seeing monkeys nearly everywhere we go. In Java, though, they are conspicuously absent. Until you get to Gunung Api Purba! All through the trees at the beginning of the hike there are grey monkeys, just like in the Monkey Forest at Ubud. These are a LOT tamer than the ones you will find in Bali, however, mostly due to the fact that they don’t see anywhere near as many humans. They pretty much keep to themselves on Gunung Api Purba, so you can safely take a few photos without worrying about losing your camera.
The trail will almost immediately take you under and around some massive boulders. Another trail branches to the left, taking you the easy way to the same place, or so you find out later. I can only imagine that they take you the “scenic” route to get you accustomed to what is up ahead. Because there are a LOT of rocks!
The trail to Pos #1
The track from here can be summed up by simply saying one word. Stairs.
Well, to be more accurate, mossy, rocky stairs. They aren’t hard, but the track winds its way up steeply, so stairs actually make the going easier as you rise rapidly. You will pass by a couple of interesting “side” attractions that you can take advantage of if you like. These are basically just photo opportunities, but trust me, the best ones are still up ahead.
The stairs will be accompanied at times by ladders to get up and over mossy boulders, or steps cut into the rock with an accompanying rope to assist your climb. Eventually, though, you will come across an interesting “slot canyon” in the rock that the track leads you into.
Follow the canyon, and you will see a couple of ladders up toward the end. The canyon, or simply “crack in the rock” is wide enough for you to navigate easily. Ascend the ladders and when you pop out of the top, a magnificent view awaits.
Don’t linger too long here, though. Follow the trail for another 100m, up another flight of stairs and you will come to Pos #1. Basically, the first rest point in the form of a small “Bale” or hut.
The view here is amazing. Take a stroll out onto the rock in front of the hut and get some incredible snaps of the countryside that you have just come from. Directly below you will see the starting point, and realize how far you have actually risen.
Take a rest,and get ready to head on to Pos #2.
Elastic Canyon
Remember that first slot canyon you just came through? Well, there is another one coming up between Pos #1 and Pos #2. If there is one thing I can say about Gunung Api Purba, it’s that the climb is interesting!
Now, if you had looked at the map at the bottom of the climb, you might have noticed a few different trails running around the mountain. This is because there are actually a couple different ways to go. There is not much difference, though, and they branch off at about Pos #2. So if you see some confusing signs saying, “way to the top” and “alternate way” or “exit track”, or any variation, don’t panic. Just keep following the “way to the top” signs. On the way down you can follow one of the different tracks for a different view.
Coming up before Pos #2, though, is something that we didn’t expect. Elastic Canyon.
This is one of the “strange” things about Gunung Api Purba. We climbed a wooden ladder, rounded a corner, and were confronted with this narrow crack in the rock which totally confused us. Because essentially, that is all that it is. A narrow crack in the rock.
I actually had a look around, thinking we had made a mistake. But the trail definitely led into the crack! So, taking a deep breath, I squeezed into the crack and forced my way through.
Now, the crack is not just a shallow crack. It runs for a short distance, but there is no way that you would think you could get through with a backpack. But we did, and were surprised that it seemed a LOT easier than we thought at the start.
After the climb we found out that “Elastic” Canyon was named that way for this exact reason. It never seems like you will fit, but for some reason, everyone makes it through. A skinny, small hiker will find the canyon a perfect fit, and right behind them a big man with large pack will find he fits through just as well. The legend is that the canyon “adjusts” itself depending upon your size. Having seen it myself, I find it hard to argue. There is just something inexplicable about it.
Right after the canyon, you will find Pos #2, and more amazing views.
Those “stories”
There are many “ghost stories” and tales of strange happenings surrounding Gunung Api Purba. If you have made it this far up the trail, then you can probably begin to guess where they originate from. But that is only half the story..
There are a couple of local legends that keep popping up and recurring for hikers, particularly those that do the hike in the dark, for the sunrise. Stories of being followed. White shapes moving through the trees alongside the trail. The sounds of children giggling are common. We personally heard a LOT of children’s voices around the canyon before Pos #1, yet saw no one the entire time.
Probably the most common occurrence on Gunung Api Purba, though, is the Jamu Ibu. This is an old lady that “sells” Jamu, a locally brewed health drink, on the mountain. She is not real, however, and is only an apparition.
An apparition that MANY hikers have seen.
One party had a member turn back because he was so unnerved by the occurrences. He didn’t even make it to Pos #1. The rest of the party kept going, seeing nothing until they arrived on the peak to find freshly brewed Jamu waiting for them, and no one around.
But I digress. Back to Pos #2…
The climb to the top
The rest of the hike up Gunung Api Purba is a lot less strange. From Pos #2 the hike becomes easier, with less stairs and a lot less of the rapid ascent. You will make your way through normal Java jungle, passing by several camping sites (why you would want to camp I DON’T know, unless you like Jamu) and onto the top. Along the way there will be the occasional branch off to other trails, but just keep following the signs to the top.
When you reach Pos #5, you can opt to just stay there. It is pretty much the same height as the actual “peak” which is just a bit further along. Plus, it has a nice little shelter, and is a lot safer, especially if there is any sort of inclement weather coming. The peak further along is just a rock with a flagpole (without even a flag when we were there) and a dodgy ladder to climb up.
Incredible Views of Gunung Api Purba
I have done a lot longer hikes than Gunung Api Purba for a lot worse views. In fact, the views from the top of this climb were some of the most amazing I have seen.
The Ancient Volcano is now present in the form of incredible rock formations that dot the top of the range. Rocky spires tower into the sky, in places carpeted by hardy grasses, or trees that have somehow taken purchase and managed to hold on. In the distance you will see villages and the local reservoir. If you look in the right direction, you can see distant Jogja, and if it is dark the lights will stand out like twinkling stars on the horizon.
Check out my YouTube via the links at the bottom of this article for some amazing Drone footage that I took from the Peak as well!
It is safe to say that we lingered on the peak for a long time. I flew the drone until the batteries were flat, and then we explored on foot. We just could not get enough of the incredible nature of the views, and the ancient volcanic formations. In short, we were amazed!
When you take the track back down again, head a short distance along the same trail, and if you like, branch off onto one of the alternate trails. You will find a few different “pos” locations, and different views along the way.
Where to stay
This is a pretty easy one. Jogja. Yogyakarta is pretty local to Gunung Api Purba, so there is really no need to move from the accommodation that you already have. For accommodation in the Yogyakarta area, just hit the link in the button below.
Can I take a tour?
There aren’t really any tours to get to Gunung Api Purba. However, you WILL find an option at the ticket office to hire a guide. They actually advised us that we didn’t need one, and they were right. The hike is pretty self explanatory.
To get there, I advise just taking your own scooter or car. If you like, hire a driver for the day from Jogja, and have him wait in the car park for you. You will only be gone a few hours, and then you can go to some other locations on the way home.
What else is in the area?
From the peak you will see the local reservoir. This is a popular spot for many to stop and have a look around and take photos.
My suggestion is to follow the road toward Klaten, and check out Air Terjun Luweng Sampang. This amazing waterfall is right beside the road, and falls into a beautifully carved out canyon, with a great swimming spot below. It is easy to find, and on the way home if you keep following the road out to East Prambanan, coming out just near Candi Prambanan.
If you opt to head home the way you came, and it is later in the day, then stop by at HeHa Sky View for some more great views of Jogja, and dinner in the cafe there.
Summary
Gunung Api Purba is an amazing experience. The hike is unique, and you will see and experience things that you just won’t see in many other places. It may be short, but it is very entertaining, and the views at the top are extraordinary. I highly recommend it for anyone who is in Jogja and looking for something different to do, away from the city itself.
Are you interested in other things to do in Jogja? Then hit the below link for all of my articles about the area! If you are looking for a great day trip, I really recommend heading out to Nepal Van Java!
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