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TUMPAK SEWU WATERFALL, EAST JAVA – Complete Guide

Tumpak Sewu Waterfall is one of those places that you will remember for the rest of your life. It is a place unlike anything that you will find anywhere else, and would have to travel a long, long way if you were. This is more than just a waterfall, and definitely more than a simple photo opportunity. Tumpak Sewu Waterfall is an adventure, a physical challenge, a defining moment and a once in a lifetime experience all rolled into one.

Tumpak Sewu translates as “Thousand Waterfalls” in English, a reason that is obvious to any who witness this amazing sight.

Now, if you think we are being over dramatic about it, then read on. Because what I am about to try to show you is that Tumpak Sewu Waterfall is nothing like any other waterfall you have been to. This is not a simple hike down a couple of hundred stairs to take photos, have a quick swim and leave again. No. This is an experience that will take up most of your day, and then have you thinking about returning to do it all again.

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Table of Contents

Where is Tumpak Sewu Waterfall?

Tumpak Sewu Waterfall is not hard to find. It is in East Java, and sits nicely in the shadow of Mount Semeru. To get there you can come from the Malang side or the Lumajang side. The most popular side is the Lumajang side, and the entrance on that side of the waterfall is where you will get the best and most popular views. From the Malang side you will find a sign reading Coban Sewu Waterfall, which are the same falls. We were confused at first, before heading into the Coban Sewu side and realizing it was the same Waterfall.

Google maps Tumpak Sewu

Best place to view Tumpak Sewu Waterfall

As mentioned above there are two entrances into Tumpak Sewu Waterfall. If you come from Malang and enter via the Coban Sewu Waterfall side, then you will realise once you reach the view point that it is different to probably most of the photos you have ever seen. This is because the majority of visitors come from the Lumajang side. We won’t take anything away from the Malang side though, because even though it is not as popular and the lookout is a wooden structure that clings to the side of the cliff, it is very interesting to see the Falls from a different perspective. For this reason alone we made certain to go to both view points. Another interesting note about the Coban Sewu side is that you will find mostly locals there. All of the tourists tend to visit the other side.

Coban Sewu Waterfall
Coban Sewu Waterfall

On the Lumajang side the view point is a lot more established. It is the place you will see most photos of the Falls taken from, and it is the easier to access. Getting there earlier in the morning is also advisable as you will beat the crowd, and also catch the waterfall before the sun hits it, which gives a more mystical aspect to your photos. If you are careful enough, you can walk around to the outside of the view point railing and get even better photos. Just remember to be careful!

Most of the more famous photos of Tumpak Sewu Waterfall have Mount Semeru dominating the background. These photos cannot be taken from the view point, and are usually courtesy of a drone. If you have a drone with you, the Lumajang view point is the perfect place to launch it.

The path to the bottom of the gorge

If you visit Tumpak Sewu Waterfall and do not opt to venture down into the gorge and witness the Falls from below, you are definitely missing out! As beautiful as this waterfall is from the view point, the sight that you witness from below is absolutely epic!

To access the gorge below Tumpak Sewu, you can climb down from either the Coban Sewu side or the main Tumpak Sewu side. Be warned, however, that the climb from Coban Sewu is a very precarious and dangerous one, involving very rickety ladders and vertical descents with no safety equipment. Even the locals look at it with wide eyes. The best place to climb down into the gorge is from the Lumajang side, but even that isn’t the easiest of climbs unless you have some sort of basic fitness.

Stairway down to the bottom
Stairway down to the bottom

The climb starts near the view point, just back where all the warungs are. Head down the path from here via some dirty and sometimes muddy stairs dug into the cliff face. These quickly turn into metal gantry’s and grates you need to walk across, and very soon become stairs. The myriad of different stairs and ladders that you soon begin negotiating range from solid metal to thrown together wood. Then, about three quarters of the way down you will find a small waterfall flowing down the cliff ahead of you, and the only way forward is to go through it.

Tumpak Sewu ladders
The Wooden ladders to the bottom of Tumpak Sewu

Here you need to kick off your shoes, or if you are well prepared you will already have worn waterproof shoes. Take a hold of the guide rope that is fastened to the cliff nearby, and begin climbing down the Falls. For anyone that has done this sort of thing before, it is not hard. But for the average visitor who just came for the view, it is a little different. All we can say is that it isn’t hard, and the experience once you reach the bottom is worth it!

The bottom of Tumpak Sewu Waterfall

Once you reach the bottom of the climb the real fun begins. You will find yourself now in a gorge that is almost from another world. Indeed, you will feel as if you have landed on another planet as you hike along the side of the rushing river, heading for the great Waterfall that you know lays just ahead of you somewhere.

Just after you get into the gorge you will come across a check point. This is because half of the waterfall/gorge lies in one village, and the other half in another. It is the reason that there are two names for the waterfall and two view points up top as well. At this check point you will have to pay to go any further, but it is a nominal fee and not very much. We had already been to both view points up above so this was the third fee we had paid, but didn’t even flinch. Just remember that this is how the village makes their money, and it is how things are done. Those ladders and walkways don’t just grow on the side of the cliff, after all.

Tumpak Sewu Waterfall
Tumpak Sewu Waterfall

Once through the check point, head on down to the river, where you will have to roll up your pants and wade across. Don’t worry, it isn’t deep, but the water is flowing pretty fast so be careful. On the other side follow the path around the corner in the canyon and behold one of the most amazing sights you will ever witness.

Tumpak Sewu Waterfall when viewed from below is something that I will never, ever forget. The extraordinary sight and raw force of nature that resides in that gorge is a glory to mother nature herself. It seems like the Earth has suddenly stopped spinning and time has ceased. You could even be forgiven for looking behind you just to make certain you have not somehow been transported thousands or even millions of years back in time. This is a place that has existed forever.

Make your way across the river again, this time via a bridge, and find a place to take some photos. The gorge is massive, and no matter where you choose you will get a great view of the hundreds of small waterfalls cascading down the cliffs in front of you. On your right will be a small mountain of rock that makes a great viewing platform. Over on the left is another, more mossy hill covered in low growing foliage. There is even a couple of smaller waterfalls forming beautiful little pools you can swim in. Relax and just enjoy it as long as you can.

Up close and personal at Goa Tetes
Up close and personal at Goa Tetes

Goa Tetes Waterfall

That’s right. Another waterfall. Head back the same way you came down the gorge and past the place that you entered. Not far down the gorge you will find another amazing waterfall.

The first thing you will probably notice about Goa Tetes Waterfall is that the walls of the gorge are orange. It really creates a unique aspect to the waterfalls that you don’t get anywhere else. Pause to take some photos or video before you move on.

Goa Tetes Waterfall
Goa Tetes Waterfall

Goa Tetes Waterfall is amazing because it spreads itself out across the cliff face, falling into numerous pools and rivulets running across to the main river. As you move around it’s base you will find the main flow that forms a small green pool that is about waste deep. This is great for a quick swim and good spot to pause and enjoy the Falls. If you are keen you can even walk up to the base of the Falls and stand right under them, feeling the power of the water while enjoying a natural shower. This is one of my favorite things to do at a waterfall, and I certainly took advantage of it on this occasion.

Once you are finished at the waterfall, you have the option to climb up to the caves. That’s right the Goa Tetes Caves are just above the waterfall. You can locate the path just past the waterfall, but be prepared for another adventurous climb where once again you will be wading through water and getting wet en route. The caves themselves are amazing, with plenty of deep and dark caverns to explore if you are keen enough.

The climb back to Tumpak Sewu Lookout
The climb back to Tumpak Sewu Lookout

Once you are done at the bottom of the gorge you will need to make your way back to the surface. If you are there late in the day the local guides will come searching for you, blowing whistles to alert you it is time to leave. The sun sets early in a gorge as deep as this one, and you don’t want to get stuck on the side of the cliff in the dark.

If you are at the caves you can continue up the same path to exit the gorge, or else head back down to the path you entered from and head back up the same way. The climb back up through the waterfall is actually easier than getting down, so don’t be afraid to go that way. If you opt for exiting on the Coban Sewu side, all I can say is, Good Luck!

Where to stay for Tumpak Sewu Waterfall

Visiting Tumpak Sewu Waterfall is easy from either Lumajang or Malang. Both places are rather large and easy to find accommodation. A quick search on Agoda will provide you with plenty of options. Keep in mind that to stay in either place will mean a couple of hours drive in either direction, making the day long and your time at the waterfall shorter.

D'Corner Tumpak Sewu Homestay
D’Corner Tumpak Sewu Homestay

Your other option is to stay close by. There are a couple of really nice little home stays in the immediate vicinity, and this sort of accommodation is always our personal preference. It will also give you the chance to check out a couple of other nearby waterfalls that are pretty great in their own right.

This is the place that we stayed and would really recommend.

Tumpak Sewu Homestay – very nice home stay just near waterfall with friendly staff who will go out of their way. Also very quiet.

What else to do in the area?

If you are after something else to do in this part of Java, there certainly is plenty! After you have seen the waterfalls, why not take advantage of being so close to Mt Bromo and Mt Ijen to witness what a real volcano is like, or the natural phenomenon of the Ijen’s blue flames?

We recommend GetYourGuide for tours to these places. They are experienced and know their stuff! They also offer options from any of the major centers, such as Surabaya, Yogyakarta, and even Bali.

Enjoy!

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