One very under rated getaway from Semarang in Central Java is a place called Benteng Fort Willem I. This partially abandoned fort hails back to the early 1800’s, and is a fascinating place to visit if you are in the area. Located not too far off the motorway, and in an area that has several other interesting things to see and do, it is also the perfect choice for a day trip from nearby Semarang.
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Table of Contents
- About Benteng Fort Willem I
- Where is Benteng Fort Willem I
- What to expect
- “Those” Stories
- How to get to Benteng Fort Willem I
- What else is nearby?
- Summary
About Benteng Fort Willem I
The site that Benteng Fort Willem I sits on was always recognized as a strategic geographical location. As long ago as the early 1800’s it was used as a supply camp during the Diponegoro War, until, in 1834, a Fort was constructed on the site.
By the year 1840, Ambarawa had been recognized as a strategic Military location, and offered a choke point between Surakarta and Semarang. The Dutch used this as a means of improving relations with the Mataram Sultanate by impeding the movements of native troops.
Between 1853 and 1927, Military barracks were set up in the fort, and then, during a brief period of Japanese occupation of the region, it was used as an internment camp. Here, the Dutch that rebelled against the occupation, or caused any trouble at all, were kept under armed guard and treated atrociously inside their own fort.
Many of the stories, rumors and strange tales tend to stem from this period of the history of Benteng Fort Willem I.
Today, the fort is still used as a penitentiary, although only a part of the structure is utilized as such. The rest of the fort stands as a reminder of the past, and even though locals still reside in the very front areas, there are many abandoned buildings that no one will enter, and with good reason.
Where is Benteng Fort Willem I
Benteng Fort Willem I is located at Amberawa, about a 1 hour drive South of Semarang in Central Java.
The Fort is easily accessible from the main roads and motorways, has ample parking, and several other attractions around the immediate area.
What to expect
Arriving at Benteng Fort Willem I is via a “causeway” through the rice fields. The drive in is short but scenic, passing by several outlying buildings that were obviously once used as part of the fort itself. Just as you arrive at the front of the main group of buildings, you will see a smaller building off to the right with several locals sitting on chairs. This is the “Ticket Booth”.
Entrance to the fort isn’t expensive. If anything, its simply a nominal fee for the locals to keep the place running.
From the ticket office you can continue walking down the road into the fort structure via a tunnel running through the main building. Off to the sides you will notice laundry hanging on roughly strung lines, and some signs of habitation. This is because there are still some locals that live in the front building of the fort, and other outlying buildings. Remember the ticket office? Those people actually live here.
Most of the locals are descendants of people who worked at the fort in decades gone by. Some might have been guards, and others caretakers. Some tend and own the rice fields that surround Benteng Fort Willem I. Their home is here, and it is the place they have always lived. In reality it is nice that they welcome visitors the way that they do, and if you watch local Indonesians that visit, they are very respectful. Please be the same.
Inside the Fort
Once you head inside, you will find yourself in a “road” running between two buildings. This is the main area of Benteng Fort Willem I, and sometimes is about as far as many visitors actually go. Although there isn’t much to the fort itself, there is more to see than this.
Head down to the right, passing under a nice old footbridge that runs between the buildings. You can’t get up to the bridge as the second story is off limits, mostly due to it being private residence. It does make for nice photos though, particularly around sunset.
At the end of the street you will find a small Mosque on the right. In the building directly ahead though, you will find some old cells that are quite spooky to enter, but also make nice photos.
Down the street in the other direction you will see the modern prison that occupies a lot of Benteng Fort Willem I these days. Don’t head down that way as there is nothing to see anyway.
Instead head back under the footbridge and continue down the street in the other direction. Along the way you can get some nice photos under the brick and stone archways. The lush green grass is popular with young locals around sunset, who will come and just sit, enjoying the peace and quiet to simply chat and enjoy the end of the day surrounded by the unique ambience of the fort.
At the end of the street you can explore the small courtyard off to the left where there is an old well and some overgrown ruins. To the right, you road will lead you around toward the prison again, but this time providing some unique stone columns to explore.
Back in the main street you will also find another tunnel leading out of the fort in a different direction to the way you came in. Go this way! Many people don’t, thinking there isn’t much to see.
On the contrary, there are a couple of interesting outlying buildings here. Most are used by the locals for shelter during storms and heavy rain for themselves and the goats. All are very creepy, and you will need to have nerves of steel explore them. Especially the “red” building that stands ominously alone off in the rice fields. And there is a good reason for this.
“Those” Stories
There are many stories that are told by the locals about Benteng Fort Willem I. Many of them also have several variations, depending upon who you speak to. But all of them point to one inexplicable fact.
Benteng Fort Willem I is very, very haunted.
Visiting during the day is not a problem. Usually. But they close the gates at 5pm and make sure everyone has left, and that is for the good of the visitors. The locals don’t normally see much, as they know where the hauntings happen and steer well clear. There have been times in the past though, that they weren’t so knowledgeable.
Like the time that a caretaker returned to the Fort (his home) after an extended time away. He arrived during the night to find the ghosts of dozens of Japanese soldiers floating around. Well, the ghosts of their HEADS anyway. Overwhelmed by what he saw, he subsequently fainted, awakening at dawn in the middle of the graveyard, nowhere NEAR where he passed out!
One structure on the outside of the fort is often used by farmers for shelter, and at night time they often see the ghost of a Dutch mother and her children, who play around the ruins oblivious of the farmers watching on.
And the red building? Steer clear if you value your sanity. This place is known to be possessed by a demon that has sent many people mad that tried to enter. I personally walked a little too close, before I knew about these stories, and felt shivers and chills that were very unseasonable for a 36 degree Ambarawa afternoon!
I left the area in a hurry, and when I asked the locals about it, all I received were knowing smiles and a couple of stories that made me happy I hadn’t ventured any further.
So if you like ghosty places, then pay Benteng Fort Willem I a visit around dusk. Who knows what you might find if you search hard enough.
For those that don’t go searching, the fort is a wonderful place that is old, nostalgic, and a relaxing place to wind down at the end of a hot day.
How to get to Benteng Fort Willem I
The easiest and fastest way to get to Benteng Fort Willem I is by private car. Located at Ambarawa, it is easily accessed by all main roads from Semarang, Yogyakarta, and Surakarta/Solo.
The other option you have is by bus from Semarang. This can be a lot slower and will only bring you to the center of the township of Ambarawa, which might not be very convenient.
What else is nearby?
There are a few other things around Ambarawa that are worth checking out, and can really fill in a great day trip from Semarang.
- Visit the nearby Museum Kereta, a wonderful train museum. It’s literally only a few minutes drive from the fort, and features a couple of dozen old steam locomotives, railway antiques and the chance to take a nostalgic train ride around the surrounding area.
- Take a short drive to Candi Gedong Songo. This beautiful Hindu Temple Complex is high on the side of the mountain, and features 5 different temples that you can hike to along the paved paths around the hillside. Wear your walking shoes, unless you opt to hire a horse to make the climb easier.
Summary
Benteng Fort Willem I is a great place to visit to see a small and unique piece of history in Ambarawa, or even Central Java itself. It isn’t that big, and many only visit for a short period of time, but for the very low entrance fee, it’s definitely worth stopping by when you’re in the area.
Especially if you like ghost stories.
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